Quality pear growing in the Mantua region, especially in the Oltrepò area, has a wonderfully long and interesting tradition. Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) recognition for the Mantuan pear - Pera Mantovana - was just reward for a long and noble tradition that can trace its roots to the gardens of the abbeys (in the late 18th century, the Monastery of San Benedetto Po had an orchard from which pears were preserved) and the upper classes (many nobles grafted and cultivated different varieties). Then, in the early 20th century, pear growing became part of mainstream farming. In December 1992, a consortium of pear growers and sellers was formed, with the name Consorzio Pera Tipica Mantovana. The purpose was to protect and promote pear growing, an element of pride for Mantuan agriculture. In 1998, PGI status was awarded and the consortium that used the name PerWiva was born. The production zone runs from Viadana to Felonica, covering 32 municipalities in the province. Production is regulated by EU-approved specifications. As such, pear orchards tend to be mid-sized, with a maximum density of 5,000 trees per hectare and no more than 350 quintals can be produced per hectare.
Varieties
The certified varieties are the traditional Mantuan ones, namely Abate Fetel (yellowish-light green skin and russeting around the stem), Decana del Comizio (smooth, light green, yellowish and pink, with minimal russeting), Conference (yellowish green, with diffused russeting), Kaiser (rough, russeting), William and Max Red Bartlett (smooth, pinkish yellow, sometimes with streaking).
In the kitchen
Pears are obviously eaten fresh, but are also common additions to cakes, fruit salad and other dishes (the most famous Gonzaga chef used them in cakes). It is also fairly common to simply eat them with cheese. For example, pear with Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese is a rural classic. Cooked in local Lambrusco wine (or another red), pears become a real delicacy.
PEARS IN WINE
Ingredients for 4 portions
600g unripe pears (ideally the Kaiser variety)
small stick cinnamon
4-5 cloves
120g sugar, lemon juice
2 cups red wine
Method
Wash the pears. Place them in a deep saucepan and cover with lukewarm water. Boil for 5 minutes or slightly more. Remove, cool slightly, peel and then place in a dish in cold water with a little lemon juice for 10 minutes. Remove and return to the saucepan with the same lemony water and the sugar. Dissolve the sugar over a moderate heat, and add the red wine, cinnamon and cloves. Cook until soft. Serve in a dish with their sauce.