The white truffle from the southern Mantua area
The 'white truffle valley of Mantua' is quite a large area hugging the right bank of the River Po. This is largely an alluvial, sandy terrain with a temperate, wet climate. Such land is, of course, excellent truffle land and corresponds to a riparian band running from Quingentole to Felonica. Various types of truffle are found here but the undoubted king is Tuber Magnatum Pico, better known as the famous and aromatic white truffle that adds that special touch to so many local recipes. In autumn, the rare 'plain black' truffle can be found; in spring, another type of white truffle (known locally as marzuolo); and in summer and winter the uncinato or scorzone black truffle. In the province of Mantua, white and plain black truffles can be found in the southern section, while the prized black truffle is found in the hills in the north. The best area for the white truffle runs from the Sermide area to Quingentole and onto the flood plains of the Po and Mincio rivers.
Black truffle from the northern Mantua area
The hills in the north of the province, near Lake Garda, are where you are most likely to find the rare black truffle. In 1662, Bartolomeo Stefani, chef at the Gonzaga court, wrote: ‘During the cold season, one enjoys the truffle from the plains, which can be preserved in oil for when it is warmer, when one could also have fresh truffles, found in the hills and mountains, especially if one is near Volta, and Capriana, land of the Serenissimo in Mantua’.
TRUFFLE RISOTTO
Ingredients for 4-6 portions
400g risotto rice
50g Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese (single piece)
1 white truffle
4 tbsp. grated cheese
1 litre skimmed meat broth
60g butter
Method
Bring the broth to the boil over a moderate heat, pour in the rice, mix and cook until al dente, without the lid on. Brush the truffle to remove any soil. Use a truffle cutter to slice the cheese thinly and place on a plate. Add the butter and grated cheese to the rice. Mix the ingredients, adding salt to taste. Pour the rice into a dish, place the cheese on top and then cover with slivers of truffle.
In the kitchen
Truffles from Mantua are not only used in risotto, but also with tortelli, escalopes, omelettes, fried eggs and cheese. Even when only a hint of truffle is added, the aroma adds greatly to the flavour. One of the best dishes to try is the risotto with white truffle made in the area where these truffles are found, between Borgofranco and Carbonara di Po.