Without offending anyone, it must be said that the common denominator in the Mantuan mosaic is pumpkin tortelli. This is a traditional meatless dish served on Christmas Eve, the Feast of St Anthony (17 January) and the Assumption, especially when celebrated on 15 August as part of the age-old Fiera delle Grazie (a traditional feast in these parts around mid-August). Tortelli would seem to date back as far as the year 1000, when they appeared on local tables. Tradition holds that the Gonzagas sought to promote this food as a symbol of their Court, perfecting it with the addition of mostarda (the local variety, which is completely different from French mustard) to accentuate the sweet and sour taste that was so popular in the Middle Ages. In the 'city' version, the tortelli are filled with a mixture of pumpkin, mostarda and macaroons, and then served with butter and sage – like giant ravioli. In the province, a number of varieties are found. In the southern part of Mantua province (Oltrepò area), they are more truly tortelli and served in a tomato sauce. Of course, such regional variety is to be expected since there is no single recipe and tortelli are a ritual rather than ordinary fare that, during Christmas Eve celebrations, renews family bonds of family, passing from one generation to the next. As in the past, tortelli are a highlight of local family tradition and culture, passed down from mother to daughter. Families often protect the secret of their filling jealously, while remaining faithful to the general recipe.
Ingredients
1kg pumpkin
150g macaroons
180g apple mostarda
160g grated Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese
a touch of nutmeg
1 egg
a pinch of salt
breadcrumbs for the pasta
Pasta ingredients
1kg Mantuan pumpkin
600g fine flour
6 eggs
Method
Remove the skin and seeds from the pumpkin and steam it. Use a fork to reduce the pumpkin flesh to a smooth cream. Add the chopped macaroons, mostarda, cheese, salt and, if needed, breadcrumbs until the mixture is dry. Leave to stand for a couple of hours. Make the pasta dough using 6 eggs and 600g of flour (ideally durum wheat) and then cut into 7cm white strips. Place a tablespoon of filling every 3 or 4cm and fold the pasta to create little wallet-shaped 'packets' that are pressed at the sides to ensure they do not open. Cook in abundant salted water and serve with melted butter, grated cheese and sage.