Mostarda is a condiment made of candied fruit and a mustard-flavoured syrup. In Mantuan cuisine, it is very much part of the noble culinary tradition. Documents from the Gonzaga era show the Princes of Mantua favoured this delicacy for their banquets, having been prepared by spice experts – the pharmacists of the day. Over time, it become more widespread, especially as sugar and mustard flavouring became more easily available. Mostarda is now a typical ingredient in Mantuan cuisine, also used when making the famous pumpkin tortelli. Almost inevitably, recipes vary from zone to zone – and even family to family – but the basic ingredients in Mantuan mostarda are bitter pears or apples (Campanina variety or quinces with a sharp taste) that are soaked in sugar and liquid mustard.
The word mostarda has its origins in the Latin mustum ardens (literally, burning must), a spicy concoction made with crushed mustard seeds. Both the French moutarde and the English mustard share this Latin root.
Ingredients
1kg Campanine apples
½kg sugar
6 drops mustard essence (per kg of finished product)
Method
First, the fruit is peeled, cut into thin slices and allowed to stand for 24 hours covered in sugar. The liquid is then drained off and boiled, before being poured into the fruit and allowed to stand for a further 24 hours.
This process has to be repeated three times. On the fourth day, the fruit and syrup are boiled together slowly, adding in the mustard liquid (six drops per kilogram of finished product). The mix is then allowed to stand for a few hours, before being placed in jars and sealed tight. Such mostarda is used in making Mantua's famous tortelli, as a condiment for boiled dishes or simply eaten with Parmesan or Grana Padano cheese.
Tip
The ideal fruit for making mostarda is slightly sharp and quite hard. Campanine apples are the best, especially as these are a local variety with ancient roots in the Mantua area. Alternatively, you could use Russet or unripe apples.