The hills that were so much a part of the Risorgimento also mark a profound division in culinary culture. At the foot of Solferino castle, tortelli cease to be king, with their place rather unexpectedly being replaced by a relic of Habsburg rule and their Germanic influences. These morainic hills are home to capunsèi, a type of elongated gnocchi made to a 14th-century recipe with breadcrumbs, Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese, egg, butter, garlic, onion, salt, pepper, nutmeg and good broth. They are served with melted butter and sage plus, of course, a sprinkling of grated cheese. Following WWII, in the Pozzo Catena district, it was said that the famished young men who had run away rather than join the Social Republic were fed with capunsei.
Ingredients for 4 portions
300g bread crumbs
½ tbsp. chopped onion
100g grated Grana Padano or Parmesan cheese
1 clove garlic
100g butter
salt, as needed
pepper,
nutmeg
boiling broth, as needed
Method
Blanch the onion and garlic in the butter.
Place the bread in a bowl and then, on top, place the blanched onion and garlic as soon as it is ready. Work quickly, adding the boiling broth, salt, pepper and nutmeg.
Once the mixture has cooled, add the cheese and egg. The dough should be uniform but quite soft, so it can be worked. Form slightly elongated oval shaped cylinders (about 4-5cm long) by rubbing pieces of dough between your hands.
Cook these in boiling salted water.
Serve with melted butter, a few sage leaves and the grated cheese.